Leo, KC

Can you prevent basement mold from growing and wreaking havoc in your basement? The answer is yes! Let me show you how.

Moisture is the number one element which makes a basement conducive to mold growth. So it is imperative that your basement be kept dry at all times. Very common causes for the presence of water in your basement are leaking pipes and ceilings and defective plumbing. A 24-hour delay in fixing them can give basement mold a headstart and send it on its way.

Increase air flow in your basement by keeping the door and windows open and installing electric fans. If ventilation is adequate in your basement, chances for basement mold to grow are lessened. Keep furniture or other objects a few inches away from the wall to allow air to circulate.

Clean your basement and vacuum floor on a regular basis to remove mold spores. Carpets, beddings and curtains should also be washed and thoroughly dried regularly.

Droplets of water on your basement pipes or windows indicate condensation and are a sign of high humidity. Dry these surfaces immediately. Cover cold items in your basement like water pipes with insulation to decrease condensation.

Purchase a humidity meter to monitor humidity level. Keep it at below 60 percent. Even better, buy a humidifier and install it in your basement. It will suck the moisture out of the air and prevent dampness.

If there is a bathroom in your basement, install an exhaust fan to suck moist air out of the bathroom while the shower is running since this will promote mold growth.

In the event of a hurricane or typhoon and you will be covering your furniture with plastic, make sure it is very dry. Seal the plastic on all sides and wrap the furniture tightly to protect it from high humidity which is a result of hurricanes.

Putting a stop to basement mold is not as complicated as it looks. All it needs is a little of your time and effort and a lot of determination.  Visit Basement Remodeling Ideas website for more tips on basement remodeling and basement maintenance.

In many areas of the pest management industry today, exterminators are following up on their work by encapsulating the crawl space to prevent crawl space mold. Encapsulating a crawl space involves sealing all crawl space vents and doors with airtight covers, covering the crawl space walls and floors with a durable plastic for water crawl space liner, and, in the case of block foundation walls, adding a plastic covering over the open cavities of the blocks to keep humidity from filtering upwards through the crevice. In some cases, the contractor may complete the job with a crawl spaces dehumidifier to remove residual humidity, or a crawl space sump pump if there’s been a history of flooding.

Why are pest management professionals encapsulating crawl spaces? By sealing off the crawl space vents and doors, they prevent those from serving as access points for infestations of insects and animals that could reenter the space, causing problems in the area. And lining the crawl space walls and floor with a polyethylene liner will also help to deter pests, such as subterranean termites, beetles, and carpenter ants, from entering the space through the foundation or floor.

A crawl space moisture barrier, in combination with a crawl space sump pump and dehumidifier when needed, will create a dry, healthier crawl space. By removing humidity, the environment can become inhospitable to mold, dust mites, rot, and certain pests, such as the American Cockroach. Foul, mildewy smells are reduced, and the smells of the animals, that live, create waste, and die in the area will be gone.

Crawl space encapsulation of a dirt or concrete crawl space- especially a vented one- will make the space much more energy-efficient. By sealing off the vents, winter cold and summer heat are kept out of the space. Cold winter air on furnaces, hot water pipes, and heating ducts located in the crawl space forces them to work harder just to maintain status quo, and a cold crawl space means a cold floor above. In the summer, heat and humidity enter the space, where the humid air condensates on the wood and metal or travels upwards into the home. Humid air is much harder to cool than dry air, and therefore more expensive to condition.

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